Saturday, February 13, 2010
Stop And Smell The Roses
Self Definition, originally uploaded by Ayala Moriel.
How
did the rose
ever open its heart
and give to this world all of its beauty?
It felt the encouragement of light against its being,
otherwise we all remain too
frightened.
- Hafiz
The beauty of rose unfurls its spiral-shaped blossom, unfolding each petal as it progresses. There always seems to be more depth to the perfume of rose. Which is why when we stop to smell the roses, we tend to take long, deep breaths... There always seems more to it in the next inhale, and the next one... Just a short whiff won't cut it!
It is impossible to imagine what perfumery would be like without roses. The beauty of rose essences - both the attar (rose otto) and absolutes add an irreplaceable quality to a perfume, making it round and harmonious.
Part of the appeal of roses is their complexity. Rose is one of the most complex botanical essences, of which 540 elements were identified; yet it is still inimitable by means of synthetics. But it is also rose’s complexity that makes it one of the most challenging natural raw materials to work with in perfumery.
As discussed in the previous article, the roses most used in perfumery are the Rosa damascena and Rosa centifolia. Rosa damascena is mostly steam distilled to produce Rose Otto – the best of which comes from Iran (but is hardly ever imported anywhere out of the Arab world). Persian rosweater is used during the prayers in the Hadj in Mecca to cleanse the Kaaba.
Like many natural raw materials, rose essences olfactory profile varies greatly depending on their geographical. On the whole, some generic observations can be made: rose has a typical “rosy” scent, which characterizes this unique flower essence, and is mostly derived from the high percentage of citronellol and geraniol, as well as phenyl ethyl alcohol (in the absolute), which gives the fresh-petal note. In addition, there is citrusy aspect (from citral), and a slightly spicy aspect, from eugenol (which is also present in cloves and allspice, for example). It also contains many trace elements, which vary from species to species (i.e.: ionone, which is much stronger in Tea roses). On a scent strip, rose begins as a fruity, rosy, full-bodied, even wine-like or honey-like, and softens as it dries down, sometimes showing some green aspects (I suspect this is because the flowers’ sepals and base are also extracted in the solvent). It dries down into a woody and even slightly animalic note. Rose is a heart note, but very long lasting, and depending on the context of how it is blended, it may even act as a base note.
Bulgaria’s Valley of Roses produces the finest Rosa damascena attar and rosewataer. White rose bushes (Rosa alba) grow at the edges of these fields. After Bulgarian rose otto, the next best quality is of Anatolian rose otto (from Turkey). The Bulgarian otto tends to be more light, and to me smells more true to the fresh flower. Turkish rose otto is heavier, more full bodied and with a certain wine-like and even slightly earthy qualities. Other locals of rosa damascena of lesser qualities come from Russia, India, Pakistan and Uzbekistan. The Indian roses have a peculiar off note that makes them completely different than anywhere else in the world. It’s as if they take with them some of the earthy qualities of the Indian soil. This kind of rose has, of course, its own beauty, but is less desirable for Western perfumery purposes. It lends itself beautifully to more exotic blends, with an Asian or Indian theme.
It’s important to note, that producing the steam distilled essential oil does not capture the entire scent of the rose. The important molecule phenylethyl alcohol, for example, remains in the distillate water, and is mostly responsible for the fine aroma of rosewater.
Rose absolute, from solvent extraction, is primarily extracted from Rosa centifolia, (Grasse in France and Morocco are the major growers), and only to a lesser extent from Damascus roses in Bulgaria and Turkey. The absolute captures a fuller spectrum of the living rose. It must be noted, that the rose absolute is so extremely concentrated, it is best to dilute it down to as low as 10% to unfold and release the aroma of fresh rose petals, and fully understand this raw material.
Similarly, too high a proportion of rose in a formula can pose challenges. It can make the perfume too dense and rich. This is particularly true for purely natural perfumes, which are always in danger of becoming cluttered or too dense. Rose is used in all fragrance categories:
In classic colognes, it is used in a very low proportion along with citrus and herbs for a refreshing and light citrus fragrance.
In Orientals, rose has a central role in harmonizing and rounding off the composition, bridging between the rich resinous base notes and the light citrus or exotic spice notes at the top. Rose will have a similar role of bridging and rounding in Chypres. In both cases, rose lends itself readily to being the star of the show, in a rose-dominated Oriental (i.e.: Parfum Sacre) or Chypre (Nuit de Noel). And of course – it is essential in floral bouquets and is the most popular soliflore of the all.
According to Shiseido’s research, fragrant roses can be classified to 6 different categories – all of which seem to be difficult to describe without reference to other roses:
Damask Classic
Combination of the “strong and sweet Rosa centifolia with the exuberant scent of Rosa gallica”
Damask Modern
Similar to the above, but with “more passionate sophisticated scent”.
Scent of Tea
As mentioned earlier, the violet and tea-like qualities of China roses added to the damask or centifolia roses, added a more delicate, graceful, and somewhat reminiscent of tea aroma to hybrid tea roses.
Fruity
Damask Classic or Tea Rose with the added nuances of fruit, such as peach, apricot, apple, raspberry, etc.
Blue Scent
Charcterisics of both damask and tea roses.
Spicy Scent
Damask Classic, with accentuated cloves scent (from eugenol).
rosa_rugosa_3_coin_de_jardin, originally uploaded by JD-roud.
Similarly, just as there are many rose breeds, with various colours, shapes, sizes and odours, even rose-dominated perfumes have a lot of variety within them. Let’s explore some of the main ones:
Fresh Rose
These rose perfumes have a very light, almost realistic rosiness, and are as close as could be to the fresh living flower.
i.e.: Tea Rose, Evelyn Rose, Stella, Rosebud
Green Rose
Often a nearly Chypre type, these green florals excude the briskness of crushed leaves, grass and rose petals.
i.e.: Ivoire, Kelly Caleche, l'Ombre dans l'Eau, No. 19, Grin
Fruity Rose
Fruity, full-bodied, sometimes wine-like, and at times with added fruity notes such as peach, apricot, apple, etc.
i.e.: Grand Amour, Spring Flower
Powdery-Sweet Rose
Roses paired with violet or orris. Soft, powdery and often sweet with a somewhat old-fashioned air to them. Vanilla is also not a rare thing to find in this rosy category.
i.e.: Paris, Bvlgari, Lipstick Rose, N'Aimez Que Mois, Cabaret
Big Abstract Rose
Modern interpretations of the rose have painted it with large strokes and less components than in old fashioned rose formulas, making them less realistic, but not any less romantic, despite their boldness
i.e.: Nahema, Tresor
Animalic Rose
Rose with an intentional animalic base makes it… well, a little naughty. Civet and musk are particularly effective to that extent.
i.e.: Joy, Agent Provocateur, Megumi
Earthy Rose
When paired with earthy notes, such as patchouli, rose grows bigger and stronger; as if on a fertile soil that allows her to fully develop luscious petals. Notes such as patchouli are the most important to that effect and this genre has become quite popular now (especially with the new restrictions on oakmoss). Of particular interest is Alexander McQueen's Kingdom, in which the cumin note adds a sensual earthiness.
i.e.: Kindgom, Midnight Poison, Philtre d'Amour, Taurus
Musky Rose
Rose with a light, musky base. These can often be also quite powdery.
i.e.: Tocade, Poussiere de Rose
Dark Rose
Often from the Chypre family, dark roses are haunting, mysterious and full of depth.
Dark rose impression is often achieved by pairing it with mosses, spices and animalic notes.
i.e.: Nuit de Noel, Black Rose, Song of Songs
Spicy Rose
Roses have always been paired with spices, both medicinally and for culinary purposes. It is not surprising, than, to find that roses go well with spice in perfumes as well. Spicy roses don’t necessarily need to smell like potpourri. Some are the most luxurious rose perfumes that I’ve ever came by.
i.e.: Parfum Sacré, Ta'if, Fête d'Hiver, Roses et Chocolat
Labels: Building Blocks, Decoding Obscure Notes, Raw Materials, Rose
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Unfolding the Hundred Petals of Rose
English Roses, originally uploaded by Ayala Moriel.
The nightingale, and none beside, knows the full worth of the rose for many a one reads the leaf and understands not the meaning thereof
– Hafiz
There is so much to be said about roses. And there is no better time to say it than now: winter is coming to its end, and celebrations of life and love in the form of fertility festivals and chaotic carnivals where everything is possible have now been replaced by Hallmark holidays of subdued emotions, appropriately framed with heart-shaped molds and rose-red hues. Finding ways to express emotions have never been more trying. And saying it with roses, as cliche as this may seem, might be the only way to remain genuine and leave something to the imagination.
Botany
Rose is a perennial flowering shrub from the Rosacea family. The leaves are serrated and most of the rose bushes have thorns on their branches. There are over 100 species of rose. With the exception of some Southeast Asian rose species, roses are deciduous, and lose their leaves in the winter. The fruit of the roses is a berry called rosehip. Roses with many closed petals may not produce fruit at all, as the insects cannot access the pollen. Roses vary in sizes of the plant as well as the flower. There are some climbing varieties, some plain bushes. Rosehips are especially rich in vitamin c (especially those from the dog rose – Rosa canina – native to Lebanon and Israel; and Rosa rugosa, aka Japanese rose).
Cultivars, Hybrids etc.
Cultivated roses are hybrids of various types have more petals (which are, in fact, mutated stamen). The most important modern roses are the hybrid tea roses, which come hybrid of the above species with China roses. The China roses (Rosa chinensis) were less hardy, but produced successive blooms from summer through fall; and also contributed to the shape of modern roses (including the classic “bouquet” roses that we see at the florists); as well as more colour possibilities in hues of coral, orange and yellow.
20th century rose breeders focused so much on the size and colour of the roses, that most of the newer breeds of roses are not nearly as fragrant as the antique garden roses. And roses that are found at the florists usually have no scent at all.
Origins & History
Tidal Rose, originally uploaded by Ayala Moriel.
Most rose species are native to Asia, with only a few native to Europe, America and Northwest Africa. The following species are the ones used mostly in Western perfumery:
Rosa centifolia, originating in Persia, where it is called “Gul”. From there it spread to India (its Hindi name is Gulab-ka-phool); Rosa damascena, originally from Damascus (Syria);
Rosa gallica, the French or the apothecary rose, native to central and southern Europe; Rosa alba – a hardier type, white in colour.
China rose (Rosa chinensis) from the mutabilis variety is most important in breeding the Hybrid Tea roses of both old garden roses and modern ones. They are called that way because they change colours throughout their bloom: vermillion orange buds open to coppery pink flower and later on a deep crimson.
Myth and Nomenclature
The name for rose comes from the Latin “Rosa” (red), which originates in the Greek “rhodion” and ancient Farsi “wurdi” (flower). The name “rose” also means pink or red in a number of Romance languages, as well as in Greek and in Polish.
According to Greek mythology, rose origins were in the body of a young nymph found by Flora. Venus (Aphrodite) has transformed it into the rose plant, which was than blessed by Apolo’s sunrays, given a sweet nectar by Bacchus (the wine god) and with fruit by Pomona, and blessed with the most beautiful flowers by Flora and the Celestials (Poucher’s Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps, Vol. 2, 1959, p. 205). Rose was originally white, but after the thorns have wounded Aphrodite’s feet, her blood has turned roses red.
War of the Roses
The War of the Roses is a chapter in English history (around the time between 1455-1485), where civil wars between two dynasties (Lancaster and York) competing for the throne, and their supporters took place. Each of the dynasties had a rose symbol -Red Lancashire rose/ Red Rose of Lancaster
and the White Rose of York. When the Tudors took the throne, the War of the Roses ended, and a new symbol was created, called the Tudor Rose, combining the red and the white, to symbolize union between the two.
Some say there is a reference to that in Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland, where the cards are painting the white rosebush red, although this is a very shallow interpretation of Lewis Carrol's work.
Religious and Spiritual Rose Symbolism
In the state of union the single beings of other world are one,
All the petals of the rose are together one.
- Muhammad Iqbal
The beauty of rose and her perfume and the complexity of her petals made it a subject of symbolism since ancient times. The only other flower that is known for having an equal breadth and depth of spiritual symbolism is the lotus flower.
Wild roses, like most of the Rosales order (which also includes cherry and almond) have 5 petals, symbolic of the pentagram, or mankind (the 5-pointed star is attributed to the head and the 4 limbs). Symbols of 5-petaled rose are recurring in European art and symbolism (i.e.: the Rosicrucian order’s symbol), who only later on in history were exposed to the cultivated, multi-petal rose. And nowadays, rose is the national flower of many countries, not to mention political parties. White rose was the symbol of a peace movement in Germany during World War II.The multi-petals of cultivated roses grow give the flower the quality of mystery: it hides the stamens and holds its secrets… These petals also grow clockwise, in a spiral movement. This shape alludes to growth, expansion and is a metaphor to the universe. Spiral movement is eternal to both direction – the microcosm and the macrocosm.
Rose was sacred to the Egyptian goddess Isis.
In Hinduism, rose is considered Lord Krishna’s favourite. Hindus wash their alters with rosewater. According to the chakra system, the heart chakra is green, but when we are in love it turns to a rose colour. Likewise, rose flower grows out of a green thorny plant and represents the most elated state of the species (according to Ivan M. Granger).
In Judaism, rose was mentioned in the Song of Solomon as a thing of beauty found amongst the thorns, and is one of the seven perfumes mentioned in the book. It’s important to note, that there is also a fair amount of confusion between the names “shoshana” (the name for lily in modern days), or “vered” (the modern Hebrew word for rose).
In Kabala, the 22 letters of the Hebrew alphabet are said to form The mystical rose of creation, with the three mother letters forming a triangle in the middle (relating to the three elements – fire, water and air), surrounded by the 7 double letters which are symbolic of the 7 ancient planets, and finally by the 12 single letters, corresponding to the 12 Zodiac signs and the 12 tribes of Israel.
The beauty of rose in Ancient Greece and Rome were attributed to the goddess of love, Venus or Aphrodite. Wild rose was placed on the door of rooms where secret meetings were held. Alchemists considered rose to be associated with the element of earth, with the solar plexus or the heart, and with either the Sun or the planet of Venus.
In Christianity, red roses symbolize the blood of Christ, sacrifice and are associated with the heart. The colour of roses and their sweet, fruity, wine-like scent made them connected to wine, the refined symbol of Christ’s blood.White roses symbolize the purity and virtue of the Virgin Mary.
Prayer necklaces called Rosaries were made from fragrant rose beads (see recipe here).
The Muslims loved rose above all other flowers. Mohammed’s sweat said to have the scent of attar of rose, and he is known for his love for women, children and perfumes above all things on this earth.
The Sufis practiced meditation in rose gardens, which are the most important theme in Persian art – Persian miniatures as well as carpet designs depict such rose gardens. A recurring theme in Sufi poetry is that of the rose and the nightingale. The nightingale is the lover, longing for the love of the rose, which he expresses in sad love songs through the night. These are of course metaphors to the Sufi in search for closeness to God.
Different Colours, Different Meanings
In the Victorian Language of Flowers, roses of different colours signify different emotions, meanings and messages for their recipient. Some of these meanings remain valid till modern day.
White roses: Purity, innocence, eternal Love, silence, wistfulness, virtue, purity, secrecy, reverence and humility. The white rose in the hand of The Fool tarot card signify that pure innocence and a "tabula rasa" awaiting learning. White roses are often used in bridal bouquets.Pink roses: New love, happiness, romance, admiration, sweetness. Dark pink roses express gratitude; while pale pink mean joy of life, youth, energy and passion. Light pink roses are of the most popular after red ones.
Red roses: True love, passion, desire. These roses are most used among lovers.
Red roses also appear in The Empress card in the tarot's major arcana.
Yellow roses: Friendship, platonic love, jealousy, infidelity, dying love.Orange roses were introduced to Europe only later on, and signify a combination of the emotions that both red and yellow coloured roses represent.
Coral hued roses were especially rare, and meant desire, passion and enthusiasm. Orange roses also mean desire and enthusiasm, but also could mean pride.
Lavender roses: Love at first sight.
Blue roses: Mystery, attaining the impossible
Black roses (which are really just a very dark red): death, farewell, separation, hatred - or rebirth and rejuvenation (which are really the other side of the coin of endings and death).
Medicinal and Therapeutic Applications
The most therapeutic type of rose is the Rosa centifolia (rose of hundred petals). Interestingly, it’s Sanskrit name, shatapattri, has the same meaning. Rose is used in aromatherapy for its soothing properties. It is a heart tonic and also helps to ease women in labour and helps to balance the hormones.
Ibn Sina (Avicenna) employed attar of rose and rosewater for treating ailments of the digestive tract.
The scent of rose gives one a sense of well being. It is an oil that has the greatest effect on the emotions, helping to cope with loss, grief and promote self-esteem and confidence (especially in women). The latter quality makes it act as an aphrodisiac: when a woman feels confident in her sexuality, she feels more at ease to seduce and engage in romantic relationships.
Gulab Lassi is an Ayurvedic rose aphrodisiac.
In Ayurveda, rose is used to balance the heart. It “balances Sadhaka Pitta, the subdosha of Pitta that governs the emotions and their effect on the heart” (reference here). Rose soothes the heart and the emotions. It also balances the mind, connecting the Sadhaka Pitta to the Prana Vata (the subdosha of Vata dosha that governs the brain, head, chest, respiration, sensory perception, and the mind). Rose is unique in that it balances all three doshas.
Ayurvedic doctors use rose to treat hormonal imbalances that result in amenorrhea; as well as treat migraines and headaches, loss of vision, sore throat, inflamed tonsils; and emotionally – to cope with nervousness, grief. Rosewater can be sprayed onto eyes suffering from inflammation or infection.
Gulkand (a rose petal jam) or Gulkand sharbat (rose syrup) can be eaten on its own, or added to milk or yoghurt, to achieve a cooling effect on the body.
(sources: Kamlesh Ayurvedea, and Medicinal Use of Flowers at Home).
Rosehips are used to treat colds and influenza (because of their high vitamin C content). Rosehips have anti-inflammatory properties, and were used to treats osteoarthritis. They also aid in treating urinary tract problems, and assist in preventing cancer and cardiovascular disorders, because of their high level of phytochemicals such as carotenoid pigments, plant sterols, tocotrienols... (source).
Flavour & Culinary Uses
Roses as a flavour are especially popular in India and the Middle East as an addition to desserts and beverages; and to a lesser extent in Europe, particularly France.
In the Middle East, Persia and India - rosewater is added to sherbets, ice creams and pastries (i.e.: harissa, basboosa, baklawa and rasgulla) as well as to flavour fruit salads. Rosewater confections are also popular in Turkey, Greece and the Balkan (Turkish Delight, for example). In the Ukraine, rose petal jam is paired with vanilla ice cream. Rose petal jam was adopted as an aromatic additive to pastries, pancakes and waffles and pastries such as scones or croissants, and fresh rose petals can be added to crepes.
Rose petals are also used to flavour tea: Chinese Rose Congou tea is made by perfuming black China tea with layers of fresh rose petals. Some of the petals remain in the tea. Royal tea is an Assam black tea blend with dried rose petals and vanilla, often served with milk. I particularly enjoy adding rose petal to a milky Earl Gray tea with vanilla. It turns it into a heavenly affair, a soothing and luxurious elixir.
The rosehips are made into a jam or jelly, as they are rich a relatively high in pectin. They are also very popular as a tisane, on their own or as a base for fruit-flavoured tisanes, particularly berry-flavours, because of their sour flavour.
Cosmetics
Rose otto and rosewater have rejuvenating, moisturizing and anti-aging properties and is an excellent additive to skin-care products and skin-care regime for dry or mature skin. Rosewater tones the skin and gives it a healthy glow, and also is used for cooling the skin in Ayurvedic cosmetics – on the principle that it helps to balance the Bhrajaka Pitta (the subdosha of Pitta that governs the biochemical aspects of the skin).
In Ancient Greece, dried rose petals were ground into a powder and applied to the skin as deodorant (Poucher’s “Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps, 1959, vol. 2, p. 206).
Rosewater blended with glycerin is an easy, simple and pure homemade lotion, and can be prepared at home (which will result in a purer product - without the red colouring and any other possible additives or artificial scents used in rosewater & glycerin that is bough off the pharmacy shelves).
Rosehip seed oil is also a wonderful oil to be used in skin care, massage oil and cosmetics. Its high content of oleic, linoleic and linolenic acids, carotenoids and beta-carotene, it has antioxidant and healing properties to the skin, making valuable for cosmetics to prevent dryness and aging, age-spots, wrinkles, as well as for use for various skin conditions such as acne, dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis and more (reference).
Rose oil added to facial elixirs will leave your complexion with a youthful glow.
Tomorrow:
Stop to Smell the Roses - Rose in Perfumery
Labels: Botanical Mystery, Botanical Symbolism, Building Blocks, Decoding Obscure Notes, Rose
Остановитесь и понюхайте розы
Self Definition, первоначально загружено Ayala Moriel.
Как
роза
открыла свое сердце
и отдала этому миру всю свою красоту?
Он чувствовал поощрение света против своего бытия,
иначе мы все остаемся слишком
напуганными.
-Хафиз
Аромат розы не только открывает сердце человека, нюхающего ее; Он также раскрывает сердце парфюма, делая его завершенным.
Красота розы раскрывает свой спиралевидный цветок, раскрывая каждый лепесток по мере его развития. Кажется, что в аромате розы всегда больше глубины. Вот почему, когда мы останавливаемся, чтобы понюхать розы, мы, как правило, делаем долгие, глубокие вдохи... На следующем вдохе всегда кажется, что это нечто большее, и следующий... Даже короткого дуновения не хватит!
Невозможно представить, какой была бы парфюмерия без роз. Красота эссенций розы - как аттар (rose otto), так и абсолюты придают парфюму незаменимое качество, делая его округлым и гармоничным.
Отчасти привлекательность роз заключается в их сложности. Роза – одна из самых сложных растительных эссенций, из которой было идентифицировано 540 элементов; Тем не менее, он по-прежнему неподражаем с помощью синтетики. Но именно сложность розы делает ее одним из самых сложных натуральных сырьевых материалов для работы в парфюмерии.
Как уже говорилось в предыдущей статье, наиболее часто используемыми в парфюмерии розами являются Rosa damascena и Rosa centifolia. Роза дамасская в основном дистиллируется паром для производства розового отто, лучшее из которого поступает из Ирана (но почти никогда не импортируется куда-либо из арабского мира). Персидский свитер используется во время молитв в Хадж в Мекке для очищения Каабы.
Как и у многих натуральных видов сырья, ольфакторный профиль эссенций роз сильно варьируется в зависимости от их географического положения. В целом, можно сделать некоторые общие наблюдения: роза имеет типичный «розовый» аромат, который характеризует эту уникальную цветочную эссенцию, и в основном получен от высокого процента цитронеллола и гераниола, а также фенилэтилового спирта (в абсолюте), который придает свежую ноту лепестков. Кроме того, есть цитрусовый аспект (от цитраля) и слегка пряный аспект, от эвгенола (который также присутствует, например, в гвоздике и душистом перце). Он также содержит много микроэлементов, которые варьируются от вида к виду (например, ионон, который намного сильнее в чайных розах). На ароматической полосе роза начинается как фруктовая, розовая, насыщенная, даже виноподобная или медовая, и смягчается по мере высыхания, иногда проявляя некоторые зеленые аспекты (я подозреваю, что это связано с тем, что чашелистики и основание цветов также извлекаются в растворителе). Высыхает в древесную и даже слегка животную ноту. Роза - это нота сердца, но очень длительная, и в зависимости от контекста того, как она смешивается, она может даже выступать в качестве базовой ноты.
Rosas bravas de Arronches, первоначально загружено moitas61.
В Долине роз в Болгарии выращивают лучшие розы дамасской и розовой розы. По краям этих полей растут кусты белой розы (Rosa alba). После болгарской розы отто, следующей по качеству является анатолийская роза отто (из Турции). Болгарский отто, как правило, более светлый, и, на мой взгляд, пахнет более точно так же, как свежий цветок. Турецкая роза Отто более тяжелая, полнотелая и с определенными винными и даже слегка землистыми качествами. Другие местные жители дамасской розы менее качественного происхождения родом из России, Индии, Пакистана и Узбекистана. Индийские розы имеют своеобразную особенность, которая делает их совершенно непохожими на все остальные в мире. Они как будто уносят с собой некоторые земные качества индийской почвы. Этот вид розы, конечно, имеет свою красоту, но менее желателен для западных парфюмерных целей. Он прекрасно подходит для более экзотических смесей с азиатской или индийской тематикой.
Важно отметить, что производство эфирного масла паровой дистилляции не улавливает весь аромат розы. Например, важная молекула фенилэтилового спирта остается в дистиллятной воде и в основном отвечает за тонкий аромат розовой воды.
Rosa centifolia, первоначально загруженная Ayala Moriel.
Абсолют розы, получаемый путем экстракции растворителем, в основном добывается из Rosa centifolia (Грасс во Франции и Марокко являются основными производителями), и только в меньшей степени из дамасских роз в Болгарии и Турции. Абсолют охватывает более полный спектр живой розы. Следует отметить, что абсолют розы настолько концентрирован, что лучше всего разбавить его до 10%, чтобы раскрыть и выпустить аромат свежих лепестков розы, и полностью понять это сырье.
Точно так же слишком высокая доля розы в формуле может создать проблемы. Это может сделать парфюм слишком плотным и насыщенным. Это особенно актуально для чисто натуральных духов, которые всегда рискуют стать загроможденными или слишком плотными. Роза используется во всех категориях ароматов:
В классических одеколонах она используется в очень низкой пропорции вместе с цитрусовыми и травами для создания освежающего и легкого цитрусового аромата.
У восточных народов роза играет центральную роль в гармонизации и завершении композиции, соединяя богатые смолистые базовые ноты и легкие цитрусовые или экзотические пряные ноты в верхней части. Роза будет играть аналогичную роль моста и округления в Шипре. В обоих случаях роза легко подходит для того, чтобы стать звездой шоу, в восточном (например, Parfum Sacre) или шипре (Nuit de Noel). И, конечно же, он незаменим в цветочных букетах и является самым популярным солифлором из всех.
Согласно исследованиям Shiseido, ароматные розы можно разделить на 6 различных категорий – все из которых, кажется, трудно описать без ссылки на другие розы:Damask Classic Сочетание «сильной и сладкой Rosa centifolia с буйным ароматом Rosa gallica»Damask
Modern
Аналогично вышеописанному,
но с «более страстным утонченным ароматом».
Аромат чая
Как уже упоминалось ранее, фиалковые и чайные качества китайских роз, добавленные к дамасским розам или центифолии, придали чайно-гибридным розам более нежный, изящный и чем-то напоминающий чайный аромат.
Фруктовый
дамасский классический или чайная роза с добавлением фруктовых нюансов, таких как персик, абрикос, яблоко, малина и т.д. Синий аромат
Характеристики как дамасской, так и чайной розы.
Пряный аромат
Damask Classic, с подчеркнутым ароматом гвоздики (из эвгенола).
rosa_rugosa_3_coin_de_jardin, первоначально загруженный JD-roud.
Точно так же, как существует множество пород роз с различными цветами, формами, размерами и запахами, даже духи, в которых доминирует роза, имеют большое разнообразие. Давайте рассмотрим некоторые из основных:
Свежая роза
Эти розовые духи имеют очень легкий, почти реалистичный розовый оттенок и максимально приближены к свежему живому цветку.
Например: Чайная роза, Эвелин Роуз, Стелла, Бутон
розы Зеленая роза
Эти зеленые цветы, часто являющиеся почти шипровым типом, лишены бодрости измельченных листьев, травы и лепестков роз.
т.е.: Ivoire, Kelly Caleche, l'Ombre dans l'Eau, No. 19, Grin
Fruity Rose Фруктовый, полнотелый, иногда винный, а иногда с добавлением фруктовых нот, таких как персик, абрикос, яблоко и т.д.
, например: Grand Amour, Spring Flower
Powdery-Sweet Rose
Розы в паре с фиалкой или ирисом. Мягкие, пудровые и часто сладкие с несколько старомодным оттенком. Ваниль также не редкость в этой радужной категории.
Например: Paris, Bvlgari, Lipstick Rose, N'Aimez Que Mois, Cabaret
Big Abstract Rose Современные интерпретации розы нарисованы крупными мазками и меньшим количеством компонентов, чем в старомодных формулах роз, что делает их менее реалистичными, но не менее романтичными, несмотря на их смелость
, например: Nahema, Tresor
Animalic Rose
Роза с намеренной анималистической основой делает его... Ну, немного капризничает. Циветта и мускус особенно эффективны в этом отношении.
т.е.: Джой, Агент Провокатор, Мегуми
Землистая роза В сочетании с землистыми нотами, такими как пачули, роза
становится больше и сильнее; Словно на благодатной почве, позволяющей ей полноценно развивать сочные лепестки. Такие ноты, как пачули, являются наиболее важными для этого эффекта, и этот жанр сейчас стал довольно популярным (особенно с новыми ограничениями на дубовый мох). Особый интерес представляет Alexander McQueen's Kingdom, в котором нота тмина добавляет чувственную землистость.
Например: Kindgom, Midnight Poison, Philtre d'Amour, Taurus
Musky Rose
Rose с легкой, мускусной базой. Они часто могут быть довольно порошкообразными.
т.е.: Tocade, Poussiere de Rose Dark Rose
Темные розы, часто принадлежащие к семейству Шипровые, притягательны, таинственны и полны глубины.
Впечатление темной розы часто достигается сочетанием его со мхами, специями и анималистическими нотами.
Например: Нюи де Ноэль, Черная роза, Песнь Песней Пряные
розы
всегда сочетались со специями, как в лечебных, так и в кулинарных целях. Неудивительно, что розы прекрасно сочетаются со специями и в парфюмерии. Пряные розы не обязательно должны пахнуть попурри. Некоторые из них являются самыми роскошными розовыми духами, которые я когда-либо встречал.
Например: Parfum Sacré, Ta'if, Fête d'Hiver, Roses et Chocolat
Этикетки: Строительные блоки, Расшифровка непонятных нот, Сырье, Роза
написал Аяла Мориэль @ 1:25:00 PM
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